there's so much more that goes into a quality paint job than just mask-spray-polish. You guys that wonder why paint costs so much today? This is why. This takes a trained eye who can spot it during the wet sanding stage. Spray it as flat as you can, and polish it to the same level of orange peel as the adjacent panel(s). So, when doing a base/clear repair over a single stage paint job, you will want to minimize the amount of clear you spray over the base, and blend it well into the adjacent panel(s). base/clear paint every time, no matter now nice the paint is. Thus, single stage and base/clear can never and will never truly look the same. Much like looking at a reflection on water at a steep angle, you stop seeing the color of the water but just see the reflection. With base/clear the color is below the layer of clear, so you notice that they often lose color behind the shine when you look at panels from a sharp angle. With single stage the color is right on the surface. A well polished lacquer or Imron solid color can look very rich with excellent depth, and it is a different look than base/clear. Base/clear paint jobs typically look more like a glazed ham, whereas single stage enamel/acrylic have a different kind of shine, and usually less so. It will also change the appearance of the entire car. Clear does not cover ANY flaws, but rather exacerbates them. Also, clearing over existing paint with flaws will only highlight those flaws and make them stand out more. Among them, you will have to scuff your existing paint up to get clear to stick, and you will need to know what kind of paint it is to ensure you do not have any incompatibility that causes any number of issues. I do not recommend clearing over an entire existing single stage paint job, for a variety of reasons. Any quality paint supply shop can give you some flattener and guide you through the process. But, if you put in the time, you'll get a better match in the end. If your existing single stage finish is dull and you're concerned about the new finish not matching, you can experiment with flattener in the clear until you get a good finish match. OP, if you want the best chance of a good match, you should use a base/clear paint system with a company that has a large selection of toners and experience with color matching, so they can really get it right. if you're doing a repair on an existing paint job, base/clear is much more forgiving. Both single stage and base/clear have their advantages and place, but they cannot and should not be mixed. It was marketing garbage for people who were opposed to base/clear and wanted single stage of old. There's a reason why that was a short-lived fad that thankfully died out. That was mixing clear with single stage paint, NOT mixing it with base. Furthermore, it will still NOT spray and lay down like a single stage paint will, and will not look the same, nor should you expect a perfect color match.Ī lot of people will remember that garbage "integrated clear" phase that was popular in the early 2000s. You say you've only done it on small stuff, so how can you sit and tell people they're wrong when you really don't have the experience to say they are? I do have the experience to absolutely say that no, you CANNOT mix clear and base and expect to get a good paint job out of it. The incorrect comment is saying you can mix base and clear and expect it to last.
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